Lighting

In a beginner’s fish tank, you need a light to illuminate the fish. Don’t put the tank someplace where it will get direct sunlight. The sun will heat the water and the sun will cause algae to grow and turn the water and everything in it green. To start, just use the fluorescent light that comes with the hood of the tank. Fish and plastic plants don’t have any special lighting requirements.

DO turn the light off at night. This keeps the algae growth to a minimum and gives the fish a chance to rest. Fish will get stressed if they think it’s daytime 24 hours a day. I bought a cheap little timer at Walmart, so I don't have to remember.

If you get interested in a planted tank or a marine tank, you will have to buy special lights, but for a typical tank, just about anything will work. You can use a regular old lamp but a hood that fits your tank properly provides protection from evaporation, dust, and cats...

Choosing a Filter

There are many different kinds of filters on the market. They all do the same things: keep the water clean for the fish, and keep the water clear, so you can see the fish. But the array of choices can be confusing to a beginning fish keeper, as various types of filters do not, in fact, do the same thing. A Under Gravel Filter is not intended to be a mechanical filter, but a biological filter. A carbon insert is designed to be a chemical filter, not a biological filter.  Confused?  OK, let's break this down.

Filters work by moving the water through a media that essentially strains the dirt out of the water. Classic "bubble-up" type filters rely on an air pump to create a stream of bubbles that lift the water out of the filter and create a flow through the filter. The water is filtered by the floss and then passes through charcoal that absorb the impurities. After a while, some bacteria start to grow in the floss that can break down the ammonia and nitrates in the tank water, so the filter will do additional duty.

Some filters hang over the back of the tank and have a siphon tube that keeps the water coming in. A small motor moves an impeller that pushes the water through the filter media and back into the tank. 

An Under Gravel Filter uses the fish tank gravel for the filter media. The water is drawn through the gravel, that is supported by a plastic plate with slots for the water to pass through. The water continues up a "lift tube", drawn by a powerhead or by an airstone bubbler. 

Experience will dictate what works best for you. The "hang-off-the-back" type seem to be the most popular these days. It’s very easy to replace the filter media bag, without even getting your hands wet. Don’t be tempted to buy a huge filter with the hopes that your water will be crystal clear. It will only turn your tank into a wave-pool. Buy a filter that is rated to your size tank!

But what are the real differences in filters?  Three types of filtration need to be done to your water:

Mechanical - this is just a matter of getting the big chunks out.  Filtering the water through a sponge or some filter floss gets the solids out of the water.  Most filters do this with the exception of a under gravel filter.  Filtering the water through gravel does a poor job of removing all but the largest particles.  UGFs do make great biological filters because of all the little spots for the bacteria to hid out in the gravel.

Chemical - charcoal is the best here.  Charcoal is great at absorbing chemicals and toxins in the water moving past it.  Charcoal is what you find is the water systems for drinking water.  Not that you'd wanna' drink the water coming out of your chemical filter, but it sure keeps the fish healthy.

Biological - this is what we looked at on the cycling page.  Biological filtration is moving the water through a medium with lots of surface area to which are attached a huge colony of bacteria who's mission in life is to break down the poisonous ammonia and nitrates in the water.

I find the best solution is a combination of filters.  I start with a hang-off-the back filter.  It has a cloth bag full of charcoal.  The charcoal does the chemical filtration.  The bag does the mechanical filtration.  The two of them seem to provide a great place for my bacteria  colony.  I also like to have an UGF going.  My tanks generally do better with a UGF with a powerhead attached to the top of the lift tube.

Biologic Cycling of the New Tank

Now, that the tank looks set up, you're only half way home. Now, you've got to get the water and the filters ready for the fish. Not only do the filters remove visible debris from the water; they also remove the poisonous chemicals from the water. The charcoal in the filter does a pretty good job of absorbing most of the toxins, but a big player in the filter processes the nitrifying bacteria. 

You need to start growing a colony of bacteria to process the ammonia in your tank. Fish waste and dead plants breakdown into ammonia. The only way to keep the fish from being poisoned to death is to have and established filter of bacteria to break the ammonia down into poisonous nitrites. Of course, there are also bacteria that can break down the nitrites into nitrates. Once you're there, the fish are happy. 

Oh, You've never cultured bacteria before? Don't worry, they'll grown their own, given the right conditions. You can use some "feeder goldfish" as starter fish to get your tank going. Most pet stores sell cheap goldfish to fish keepers as food for larger carnivorous fish. One of these guys for every 10 gallons supplies enough waste to get you going smoothly. You might consider some danios to do the same job. They aren't as dirty as the goldfish, but you can keep them in your tank with your tropical fish. The goldfish will have to be deported, as they don't make suitable tank mates for your tropicals. I bought 3 "feeders" for $0.10 each.  They'll get moved to the pond in a couple of weeks.

It's best to have a test kit to monitor the ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels. Using your test kit you can watch the ammonia level rise until the bacteria starts eating it and producing nitrites.  Next, you'll see the nitrite level peak and then start to fall.  That's the sign you've got the right bacteria to process the nitrites.  Finally, you'll see the nitrate level start to climb.  The nitrates are relatively harmless to the fish.  Doing a 20% water change every couple of weeks should keep the nitrate level to a reasonable level (<20-30 ppm).

The ammonia level should rise gradually until a peak around 10 days. The nitrite level will start after about a week and peak about 20 days. It all depends on your tank and if you got lucky and some bacteria heard your open invitation to come inhabit your filtration system.

It's best to have some gravel or filter media from a well-established tank to culture or get a sample of the bacteria.  If you have a buddy with a fish tank, you could get a used filter bag from him. If you want you can just put some "starter fish" in your tank and wait 3-4 weeks. After that, you should have a cycled tank.

Find a Reputable Dealer

Cheap fish are NOT what you are looking for! IF you buy your fish, at the cheapest possible prices, the store is probably to make money by selling you more fish when those cheap fish die. They probably cut corners, like taking care of their livestock and hiring good staff.

What you should be looking for in a pet store is good advice from people that enjoy keeping fish, not just selling them. Watch out for dead fish in the tanks, sick fish for sale, and salespeople that want to sell you your first tank AND the fish to go in it, all at once. You’ll have to set up up your tank and let it cycle before you ever add fish to it. A pet store that wants to send you home with everything at once is NOT your store. Keep shopping around

Buying Equipment

Here's a shopping list to take to the pet store. Get everything you need at once and then go back for the fish

Tank - size and shape depend on your preference and budget. Bigger tanks are actually easier to keep because the larger volume of water dilutes small problems. Anything smaller than 10 gallons is nothing but trouble. 20 gallons is a good compromise for a beginner.

Gravel - choose something that is marketed for aquariums. Some rocks like limestone or highway gravel can leech toxins into the water or raise the pH to an unacceptable level. Find a nice color that your like or choose the natural riverbed type.&.

Plants - Plastic are the easiest to care for. Once you have bolstered you fish keeping skills, you might opt for natural plants, but you will have to invest in plant lights. If you are interested in live plants in the future, consider a short aquarium, as it is difficult to light the plants in an aquarium that is very tall.

Décor - As with the gravel, choose some decorations at the pet store. Anything that you might choose for around the home nay not be suitable for long periods in water or may put toxic material in the water. Even rocks that you may have collected in your travels may not be suitable, as they may leech dangerous materials into your tank's water.

Heater - tropical fish thrive in water that is 78 degrees. Unless your house thermostat is set to 78, you will need a heater to keep the tank a little warmer than the room. Some fish require even warmer water.  Ask your dealer or do a little research to try to find a suitable temperature that everyone in your tank will like.

Filter - see the filter notes

Charcoal - charcoal in your filter will remove any toxins from the water as it passes through the filter.

Filter media - will "mechanically filter" or remove any material from the water that will cause it to appear cloudy or turbid.

Thermometer - get the self-adhesive type that changes color to indicate the temperature. They are cheap, hard to break, and do get lost in the tank.

Water Treatment Solution - You must remove the chlorine and chloramines from your water. Municipalities add poisonous chemicals to the water that they supply to your home to kill off any bacteria that could make you sick from drinking it. Unfortunately, they amounts they use will also kill off your fish. There are water treatments available that will neutralize these chemicals. Follow the package directions, for treating ANY water that you add to your tank.

Background - cute little plastic picture to cover the back of the tank to hide the filters and wires. I have painted the back of the tank will acrylic paint will a lot of success. The paint doesn't distract from the fish and provides a good background.

Hood/light - if you're not growing plants or marine specimens, you'll be fine with the hood and light that comes with the tank.

No fish! - Not yet! Cycle that tank, first.

Setting Up the Aquarium

Once you get your tank filled it will be nearly impossible to move, so plan ahead.

Your aquarium dealer offers a number of tank stands that will support the weight of a filled aquarium. I usually use a sturdy dresser or oak sideboard. A gallon of water weights 8 pounds. A 30-gallon fish tank, filled, would weigh more than 240 pounds! Make sure that you have a piece of furniture that will hold that much weight.

Also, try to keep your tank in an area of the room that doesn't get much sunlight. Direct sun will heat the water and cause unwanted algae to grow. It is much easier to regulate the heat and light in the tank with a fluorescent hood and a submersible heater.

Once you get it home, check your new tank. Take the tank out on the driveway and fill it with the garden hose. Check that all the seams are good and the tank will hold water. Better that this thing will leak here than in your living room. Once you're confident in your new tank, siphon out the water and carry it to it's final spot. Get it exactly where you want it. Make sure there's room behind it for pumps and accessories, because you're not going to be able to nudge it forward once it's full.

Tape the background on the back of the tank. It's easiest to place while you can still tip the tank forward and lay it on it's front. I use clear packaging tape to secure it. Cut the background to size and secure it on both sides.

Rinse the gravel. Dump the gravel you bought into a bucket and rinse it 3 or 4 times with a hose. The water will run clear after you have rinsed enough.

Put in the undergravel filter plate (if you're using one) and its lift tube. Pour the rinsed gravel in and spread it around. Slope your gravel so it's higher in the back. I like to have it just below the bottom frame in front and about 3-4 inches deep in the back. The optical illusion of the water will level it out.

Put in your sunken ships, skulls, mermaids, and all the silly decorations you bought at the pet store. Or the driftwood and rocks. Plant your plants. Put a dinner plate on the gravel to pour the water on. This prevents the gravel from cratering out from under the torrent of water.

Fill the tank. I find it's easiest to detach the hose from the bib, carry the hose upstairs and throw the spigot end out the window to reattach. Have a helper hold the other end in the tank while you turn on the water. (I always try to stick the hose down in the tank and fold it around once and turn the water on by myself. By the time I'm back upstairs the water is pouring out on the floor. Get a helper.) Fill the tank just shy of the top. You're probably going to want to stick your arm in there and rearrange a few things after the flood. Once you're satisfied, fill the tank up.

At this point, you need to start treating that water. An airstone or a powerhead with an aerator for 24 hours will remove most of the chlorine. I usually use the recommended dosage of StressCoat. Leave the hood off to let some off the gases dissipate.

If you're wondering the size of your tank (or you don't trust the dealer), do this simple trick. Measure the side of the tank and multiply. For example your tank measures 12 by 24 by 16.5 inches. Multiply W by L by D and divide by 231. (12X24X16.5)/231 = 20.57 gallons.

Get the pumps and the filters running. Make any adjusts now, before there's fish in there. Once you're rid of the chlorine, you're ready to cycle your tank.

Cleaning the Tank

A little preventative maintenance on a fish tank can go a long way towards keeping the fish healthy and keeping your tank looking good. Keep in mind that you need to disturb the fish and the good bacteria as little as possible. Harming either is going to do more damage than good. If you kill your bacteria, you're going to have cloudy water and lose your biological filtering capability. If you kill your fish, what's the point of a crystal clear tank?

Say I have a 20 gallon tank. It's very beneficial to replace 20% of the water every two weeks. I use 5 gallon utility buckets, like the kind that contractors buy spackle in. Having done some sheet-rocking myself, I have lots of these buckets. Fill one bucket with lukewarm water and treat it for chlorine with StressCoat or similar or put an airstone in it for 24 hours.

When you're ready to clean your tank, turn off all the lights and pumps and unplug everything. Start by cleaning the sides. Clean the outside with a moist cloth. Avoid the Windex. Chlorine, remember? Clean the inside of the glass with a razor or one of the cleaning sponges from the pet store. Don't use a sponge from the housecleaning bucket. The residues from the cleaning products on it will poison your fish.

Now, vacuum the gravel, siphoning off about 20% of the water in the tank. I use a 3" tube that connects to a tube to vacuum my gravel. If you have an undergravel filter, leave about a 1/3 of the gravel undisturbed. You don't want to suck all the bacteria out of the gravel, just remove the big chunks.

If you're squeamish about sucking the hose to start the siphon, one of the venturi type siphons will work. I don't like that kind because I use the water I siphon out of the tank to rinse my filter bags. The venturi siphons put a lot of tap water in the bucket, too. Now your old tank water has chlorine in it and you risk poisoning your filter bacteria in the old water. The best compromise is to use a little trick with one of the standard siphon tubes, simply put the tube in the tank and allow it to fill up with water. Then plug the end that will go into the bucket with your thumb. Bring it to the bucket and let go...instant siphon!

Next step is to rinse filter in old water. Take the filter bag out of the filter and give it a good swishing about. Don't run it under the tap. The tap water will be the wrong temperature and will contain that nasty chlorine. The water you siphoned out of the tank is perfect for rinsing. You don't really want to clean the filter, just get out the big chunks so that the water can pass freely through the filter again. You don't want to wash away too much bacteria, that's the real filter!

Check your hoses and tubes for clogs and kinks. Rinse out any clogs in fresh water. Now, put everything back together and slowly pour the treated water into the tank. Don't forget to prime your filter before you plug it in.

As for changing the charcoal and the filter bags, I usually do it about every three or four months. After a while there's just too much sludge. Caution. Don't clean the tank AND change the filters at the same time. You'll end up with a tank that needs to be cycled and your water will be cloudy for 3 weeks. Change the filter some month instead of cleaning the tank and vacuuming the gravel. My filter box is big enough that I can change the filter bag, put new charcoal in the bag and put the old bag in the filter box, too. The water passes through the old bag, then the new bag and hopefully carries the bacteria colony into the new filter media.